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Find Out More About Hair Dyes

Find out more about hair dyes

Mastering colour is a form of craftsmanship: it requires expertise, precision and customisation. Each technique matches a specific need and result. Here is a simplified explanation of the various existing procedures.

PERMANENT HAIR COLOUR DYES

Makes it possible to lighten between 2 to 4 tones or to darken the hair.
TECHNIQUE: called “oxidation dye” = 6% to 9% oxidative agent + colourants + alkaline agent (very often ammonia).
PROCEDURE:
1. The alkaline mixture swells the hair fibre, facilitating the penetration of the colour within the hair cuticles.
2. Once inside, it dissolves the natural hair pigment (which is responsible for the oxidation effect and the appearance of brassy tones over time) actions 1 and 2 take place simultaneously.
3. Artificial or colour pigments are deposited inside the fibre, recolouring the hair.
DURATION: Permanent.
MAINTENANCE: Apply to the roots approximately once a month to hide the colour of new growth.

BLEACHING OR HIGHLIGHTING

TECHNIQUE: called “oxidation bleaching” = 6%, 9% or 12% oxidative agent + bleaching agent or bleaching / colouring agent + alkaline agent.
PROCEDURE:
1. The alkaline mixture swells the hair fibre, facilitating the penetration of the colour within the hair cuticles.
2. Once inside, it dissolves the hair’s natural pigments to obtain the desired lightening. actions 1 and 2 take place simultaneously.
DURATION: Permanent.

DIRECT HAIR COLOUR

(does not make it possible to lighten the hair)
TECHNIQUE: Using non-botanical pigments – but no chemical process – the pigments coat the hair fiber.
PROCEDURE:
1. To optimise the hold of the pigments, hair is prepared with an alkaline Ph shampoo. This very slightly opens the hair cuticles.
2. The pigments coat and cling to the hair shaft.
DURATION: Completely fades within a few washes, leaving the hair fibre in its original state.
MAINTENANCE: To be reapplied as often as necessary. No root effect

SEMI-PERMANENT / TONE-ON-TONE DYES

Makes it possible to lighten between 1/2 to 1 tone or to darken the hair. While this type of treatment is called “tone-on-tone” or “gloss”, it is still an oxidation dye.
TECHNIQUE: 3% oxidative agent + colourants + alkaline agent (in a smaller concentration than in a permanent hair colour).
PROCEDURE:
1. The alkaline mixture swells the hair fibre, facilitating the penetration of the colour within the hair cuticles.
2. Once inside, it dissolves the natural hair pigment (which is responsible for the oxidation effect and the appearance of brassy tones over time) actions 1 and 2 take place simultaneously.
3. Artificial or colour pigments are deposited inside the hair shaft.
DURATION: 6 to 8 weeks.
MAINTENANCE: the root effect is less visible since the colour fades, but the lightened base appears and can create unsightly brassy undertones in the case of chestnut shades, for example.

VEGETAL HAIR COLOUR

(does not make it possible to lighten the hair)
TECHNIQUE: Using henna and indigo-type botanical pigments, mixed with hot water – but involving no chemical process – pigments coat the hair fibre. Note: when the pigments have to be mixed with an ingredient other than water, it indicates the presence of an alkaline or slightly oxidative agent within the formula.
PROCEDURE:
1. To optimise the hold of the pigments, hair is prepared with an alkaline Ph shampoo. this very slightly opens the hair cuticles.
2. The botanical pigments coat and cling to the hair fibre.
DURATION: Very often permanent and indelible, especially if henna-based.
ATTENTION: this type of colour respects the integrity of the hair shaft, but does not follow the traditional laws of oxidation colour, the hair can never be lightened thereafter.

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Grace Kinirons

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